Preparing Your Home for
Inspection Day

• Check siding for peeling or flaking paint — scrape loose paint and repaint+
• Repair split or cracked siding boards with caulk, then repaint+
• Seal any gaps where siding meets doors, windows, or trim+
• Cut back all plants and shrubs so nothing touches the house — plants against siding attract insects and trap moisture+
• Maintain at least 6 inches of clearance between soil/mulch and the bottom of siding+
• Check exterior faucets for leaks+
• Ensure caulk around windows and doors is in good condition+
• Check steps, walkways, and handrails for loose bricks or wood+

• Clean gutters and remove debris+
• Ensure downspouts direct water away from the foundation — not pooling next to it+
• Check that gutters aren’t overflowing or leaking at seams+

Poor drainage is a leading cause of foundation and basement water issues. Inspectors always check this.

• Treat moss with a commercial moss killer applied with a garden sprayer — that’s all you need+
• Check for damaged, curling, or missing shingles+
• Look for debris accumulation in roof valleys+
• Trim trees that are near or hanging over the roofline+
• If your roof is 20+ years old, consider having a roofer evaluate before listing+

Never pressure wash composition shingles. The pressure damages the protective granule layer and causes premature failure. This is the worst thing you can do to your roof.

• Push firmly on guardrails — they should be solid and not wobble+
• Check wood at joints and intersections for rot using a screwdriver — if it sinks in, you have decay+
• Verify baluster spacing is 4 inches or less (child safety requirement)+
• Reseal the deck surface if it’s uneven, faded, or hasn’t been done in 2+ years+
• Inspect the underside: floor joists, beams, and support post bases for rot+

• Clear the path to the electrical panel — 3 feet of clearance, no storage or boxes in the way+
• Replace any missing outlet or switch cover plates (inside and outside)+
• Install blank spacers for any empty circuit breaker slots in the panel+
• Replace all burned-out light bulbs — the inspector can’t tell if it’s a dead bulb or an electrical issue, so it gets flagged either way+
• Test all GFCI outlets: press the test button, verify it trips, then reset+

GFCI protection is required in bathrooms, kitchens, garages, exteriors, and laundry areas. This is one of the most common findings.

• Have the furnace serviced by a licensed HVAC contractor before listing+
• Replace or clean the furnace filter+
• If you have A/C, have that serviced too+
• Confirm gas appliances are properly vented+
• Replace old brass gas flex connectors with stainless steel — brass connectors are a known failure risk+

Average furnace/AC lifespan is 18–22 years. If your system is approaching that age, be prepared for a potential replacement discussion.

• Check the age via the serial number — average lifespan is 10–12 years+
• Inspect connections for leaks and check the bottom of the tank for any signs of leaking+
• Ensure proper seismic strapping (required in our area)+
• Check for rust or corrosion+

If your water heater is nearing end of life, proactive replacement is often better than it becoming a negotiation item.

• Re-caulk the joint where the floor meets the tub/shower if there are any voids or cracking+
• Check all caulking around windows, sinks, and countertops+
• Walk along the floor edge next to the tub — press down. Soft spots mean rot or decay underneath+
• Press on tile shower walls — if they flex, there’s moisture damage behind the tiles+
• Run your hands along supply lines and drain pipes under every sink — any wetness means a leak+
• Replace rubber supply lines with braided stainless steel — rubber lines can fail without warning+

• If you use a wood-burning fireplace regularly and haven’t had it cleaned in 1–2 years, have it cleaned before listing+
• Loose mortar and cracking in the chimney crown will be called out — better to address proactively+
• Cap unused chimney entry points and gas lines+

• Address any standing water or moisture staining — may need a drainage contractor+
• Black plastic vapor barrier should cover all bare earth — no exposed dirt anywhere+
• Do NOT wrap vapor barrier around support post bases — this channels moisture directly to the wood+
• Check for rodent droppings — if present, have pest control seal entry points and set bait before the inspector comes+
• Verify heating ducts and dryer vent are securely connected and not exhausting into the crawl space+
• Install cover plates on any exposed electrical junction boxes+
• Replace damaged insulation+

Galvanized water pipes with rust or corrosion will be flagged for replacement. Vertical foundation cracks up to 1/4 inch are typically normal; anything larger or horizontal may require structural evaluation.

• Check the underside of roof framing for water stains (indicates leaking)+
• Verify all bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans vent to the exterior — not into the attic+
• Address any rodent evidence (droppings, nesting material)+
• Replace damaged insulation+
• Ensure clear access to the attic entry+

• Open and close all windows — test locks and seals+
• Flush all toilets and run all faucets+
• Run ceiling fans and bathroom exhaust fans+
• Open and close garage doors manually and with the remote — test the reverse safety setting+
• Confirm weather stripping on exterior doors is intact+
• Replace batteries in smoke detectors and test carbon monoxide detectors+
• Check that heating ducts are connected in the crawl space+
• Check that fan ducts are properly venting out of the attic+

• Moss on the roof
• Deferred paint maintenance on siding and trim
• Plants and shrubs touching the siding
• Gutters directing water toward the foundation instead of away
• Deck rot at joints and post bases
• Loose steps, bricks, or handrails

• Missing outlet or switch cover plates
• GFCI outlets not functioning properly
• Outdated electrical panels (Zinsco, Federal Pacific) — often require replacement
• Homeowner wiring (non-professional electrical work)
• Burned-out light bulbs

• Leaks under sinks — often small drips the homeowner hasn’t noticed
• Galvanized pipe corrosion (common in older homes)
• Caulking failures in bathrooms around tubs and showers
• Rubber supply lines instead of braided stainless steel

• Deferred furnace maintenance — no recent service sticker
• Dirty or clogged filters
• Aging systems approaching end of life (18–22+ years)
• Brass gas flex connectors that should be replaced with stainless steel

• Moisture or standing water
• Vapor barrier gaps or improper installation (wrapped around posts)
• Rodent activity (droppings, nesting material)
• Disconnected ducts venting into the crawl space
• Exposed electrical junction boxes without covers
• Damaged insulation

• Exhaust fans venting into the attic instead of outside — a leading cause of mold growth
• Insufficient or damaged insulation
• Evidence of roof leaks (staining on framing)
• Rodent activity

• Foundation cracks — vertical cracks up to 1/4 inch are often normal; horizontal cracks or larger gaps may need evaluation
• Non-professional repairs or modifications
• Wood rot where framing contacts the foundation wall